Falling for the Golden City: A Month in Jaisalmer

John and Heather Brown Bacon

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Namaste Y’all!

Oh, where to even begin with Jaisalmer? If you had told us a few months ago that we would be sitting on a rooftop in Rajasthan, typing out our experiences while overlooking the Jaisalmer Fort, We would have laughed at the fanciful thought. But here we are, living what seems like a chapter out of an old-world tale, set in a small exotic desert town that time almost forgot.

It was our second stop in India, following an itinerary that was supposed to be well-planned and time-bound. But, you see, Jaisalmer isn’t just a place you stop by; it’s where you pause, soak in, and let the magic of the ancient city rewrite your travel script.

Our arrival in Jaisalmer was something of a cinematic scene – early morning hours, the streets bathed in a quietude you wouldn’t expect in India, emptied except for the stray cows and dogs that seemed to have claimed the city as their own. The occasional rattle and hum of a passing tuk-tuk cut through the silence, a reminder that even in stillness, life buzzes with anticipation.

Here’s a little travel nugget we swear by: arriving in a bustling city late at night gives you a unique vantage point. You get to see the city’s tranquil avatar before it puts on its daytime hustle. You find your bearings in the quiet, appreciate the peacefulness, and wake up energized and ready to dive into the adventure that awaits. And what an adventure Jaisalmer was!

In the back of a rickshaw, with the cool morning air brushing against our faces, we were rendered speechless. It wasn’t the lack of sleep from the train journey but the awe of the ancient structures – havelis and temples, all stunningly preserved and very much alive with the day-to-day. For a moment, it felt like we had tumbled back centuries.

That’s how Jaisalmer began our love affair with India. What was meant to be a week’s stay unfolded into a month-long dalliance with the city. Our hotel was a delightful spot with unbeatable views of the fort. The staff were more than just hosts; they became our friends, our teachers, and our guides to everything Jaisalmer and beyond.

Ah, and the food! Dining on the rooftop became a ritual, especially after a day of playing with cows and indulging in street food with, let’s say, not the most sanitized hands (sorry, my love, for the bouts of sickness that followed!).

Our wanderlust led us through the labyrinthine lanes of Jaisalmer, greeting neighbors with smiles that lasted for days. We were steeped in the warmth of the community, and before we knew it, we were part of the city’s vibrant fabric.

The highlight? Meeting a wonderful teacher and author who opened the doors of his classroom for us. We engaged with his high school students on topics like women empowerment – conversations that were eye-opening and humbling. We shared our world with them, and they, in turn, gave us an unfiltered view into theirs.

And then there was the Desert Festival – an extravaganza of culture we’d only read about in travel brochures. We saw folk dances, heard traditional music, witnessed camels decked out as if they were about to walk a desert runway, and, yes, tried our hands (quite literally) at a turban-tying contest!

If you’re planning a trip, time it with the Desert Festival, usually in February. Trust us, the scorching months that follow are no joke!

We explored endlessly: the haunting beauty of Bada Bagh, the eerie silence of the ghost village Kuldhara, the grandeur of the Jaisalmer Fort, intricate havelis, local bazaars brimming with color and life, and, of course, feasted on the delectable North Indian cuisine that never ceased to amaze our taste buds.

Jaisalmer is not just a destination; it’s a desert treasure trove of culture, heritage, warmth, and beauty. And at night, when the city quietens down, you look up at the vast, star-studded sky and realize – this is a place that doesn’t just hold stories; it beckons you to create your own.

So, here’s to Jaisalmer, to the friends we made, the experiences we shared, and the stars that witnessed it all. This isn’t goodbye, it’s a “see you later,” because a piece of our heart now lives in the golden sands of this timeless city.

Thank you, Jaisalmer, for an adventure of a lifetime.

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